Adrian Mainella

September 10, 2010

Spontaneous Lunch with Nicholas Kirkwood at NY Fashion Week

Filed under: Fashion,Interviews — Tags: , , , , , , — Adrian @ 10:00 pm

Nicholas Kirkwood post Prabal Gurung Show Spring 2011

Q&A Nicholas Kirkwood

I Bumped into Nicholas Kirkwood and Christopher Suarez outside of Lincoln Center right after the Prabal Gurung show –As we headed for a quick lunch I had the chance to talk shop with this great shoe designer about his recent collaborations with Prabal Gurung and Rodarte for Spring 2011.

I thought I’d  also share some of our recorded conversation so you can get a real feel for just how great this rock star shoe designer is.

Nicholas Kirkwood Interview

Adrian Mainella

So tell me about how you got together with Prabal to collaborate on his shoes for his latest collection?

Nicholas Kirkwood

It was actually through Tiina Laakkonen the stylist, I’ve worked with Tina on other shows in the past and she put us together and sort of made it happen.

AM

I understand that you’re going to be working with Rodarte again this season, what’s it like working with the Mulleavy sisters?

NK

Its great. I’ve been working with them for 5 seasons now and its great for me to be able to work outside my own box in a way. We (Kate and Laura Mulleavy) can really sort of look at the heels in a different way than I would do in my own collection. They are also such talented designers, such thinkers; they really come up with really beautiful things. Maybe it’s because their not based in New York but they have somehow created their own world, very ethereal for sure.

AM

With your last collection we noticed a bit of an evolution with your aesthetic.

NK

I think it’s changing quite a lot. There comes a point when you want to evolve yourself and broaden your potential customer base and get going into other heel heights. In the past it has only ever been really high or really flat, this coming season I’m going to be working on mid heights as well. The importance of the shoe is changing in a way as well. It’s no longer about that statement shoes it’s about an accessory, not so showy and look at me. I think it’s more about the subtleties of things.

AM

What about the refined shoe, the simple shoe?

NK

I think that’s really where it’s heading, it’s also more focused perhaps on day shoes as well. They can still be interesting, I don’t think that the refined or simpler shoe doesn’t have to be boring maybe is just more subtle. I think that creativity will start to make its way into those pieces and I think the challenge is trying to make something that’s out there!

AM

Cobbler or shoe designer?

NK

Shoe designer! Although I do say cobbler when I want to get out of a conversation.

AM

Happy you said Designer.

AM

What’s one thing that is unusual about you which people would find strange or odd, or something that people don’t know about you that they would find shocking?

NK

Interesting! I don’t think I’ve ever been asked that one before! There are so many- many of which are not worth printing.

(a wee bit of a long pause)

AM

First thing that comes to mind? It doesn’t have to be special or big! Just something people would find expected.

(Christopher Suarez pipes in)

Christopher Suarez

He’s actually a great drummer! He’s surprisingly a great drummer! I found this out about 4 weeks ago at 5o’clock in the morning.

AM

I guess the question now is what were you guys doing up at 5 in the morning?

NK

(With sarcasm) Being creative obviously! Working on the collection where the tom kit just happened to be in the room.

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes for Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2011 collection.

February 12, 2011

I’m on Tumblr!

Filed under: Uncategorized — Adrian @ 10:24 pm

I’m in New York City for Fashion Week and in hopes of keeping all my readers as up to date as possible I have joined Tumblr! Head over to adrianmainella.tumblr.com where you will find up to the minute coverage of all the happenings during New York Fashion Week!

I’m also on Twitter you can follow me @adrianmainella

AM

September 18, 2010

Gwen Stefani’s LAMB Party: The hottest ticket at New York Fashion Week

Filed under: Celebs,Fashion,Gossip,News — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Adrian @ 8:49 am

Gwen Stefani making her entrance

Last night’s LAMB party for Gwen Stefani was the the perfect ending to NY fashion week. Held at 415 West 13th St in the heart of the meat packing district, this exclusive event was organized by non other than ARC NY’s Lorenzo Martone where he ensured the Veuve Clicquot was as abundant as the impressive VIP list.

The 40 year old songstress/fashion designer stood in good company with other music elites such as Kanye West, husband Gavin Rossdale, Estelle and No Doubt’s Tony Kanal. While models Alessandra Ambrosio, and Irina Shayk may have upped the event’s beauty factor, it was a late appearance from the prince of NY fashion himself, Marc Jacobs, which gave the evening its ultimate fashion cred.

I bumped into Canadian design duo Alia and Jamil Juma who now reside in NYC and have fast become fixtures of its A-list fashion crowd.

The event space was smattered with artwork by Mr Brainwash (responsible for Madonna’s last album cover), who himself  attended the event, rounding off what had to be NY’s hottest fashion party of the week.

Gwen Stefani instillation from Mr Brainwash

September 7, 2010

SHE WARRIOR: Fall Fashion Favours The Fearless Woman Who Is Determined To Survive

Filed under: Fashion — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Adrian @ 10:13 am
 

Gianfranco Ferre

From frisky fur to luxe armor, accentuated shoulders to militant tailoring, fall 2010 is all about suiting up your urban warrior. Fashion this season favors the fearless woman who is determined to survive.

When the city known for carefree sports wear produces its darkest and moodiest season to date, you can be sure a trend is brewing. We normally look to New York collections for light, easy and uplifting fashion, but this season “The Big Apple” hung up her boyfriend jacket in favor of protective outerwear.

Calvin Klein led the way with precise tailoring and helped define the structured trend. As accentuated shoulders took centre stage, Francisco Costa re-interpreted the edgy severity with a softer, spherical raglan sleeve–inspired by greats such as Cristobel Balenciaga and Azzedine Alaia. Costa used this alternative pattern as way to breathe new life into this seasons old trend.

Altuzzura, one of New York’s youngest and most directional designers, chose to take moody to the extreme. He launched an almost entirely black collection, and played effortlessly with body conscious cat suits reminiscent of sexy superheroes. It was his liberal use of black goat fur, however that helped define the real story for fall.

We typically associate fur with iconic luxury, but this season fur was alluding to tribal costume or Roman gladiator rather than dated 50’s glamour. Fur swept across runways this season with wild abandon. Designer Jeremy Laing helped reinterpret the material with a series of must-have accessories – muskrat was pieced together to denote breast-plates from earlier times. Even Michael Kors, a name synonymous with American sportswear, accented his woman with hoods and dramatic fox shawls, seemingly to protect them from New York’s harsh economic climate.

Many designers thrived on the dichotomy between strength and vulnerability. At Narciso Rodriguez, a silhouette from a black leather coat was intricately patterned to mimic medieval body armor while still managing to remain feminine and sexy.  At Gianfranco Ferre, designers Aquilano and Rimondi used ribbed wools and leathers to approximate chained armor – more protective garments for the modern day Joan of Arc.

Nicholas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga infused futurism into his interpretation by offering light colours to a commonly dark silhouette. Blousons structured like arm and shoulder gear were all in 2001 A Space Odyssey white, but it was his play with diamond patterns, suggestive of a bird’s feathers, which gave a true modern interpretation to his primitive costumes.

The woman of the season is a modern day warrior princess.  Richly adorned and anything but the ingenue, she strides confidently into an unsecure future. Paris seemed to thrive on this look for Fall – If Xena the Warrior Princess happened to stumble onto the left bank, she would have no trouble finding a dress this season. Balmain was on point as Christophe Decain used metallic fabrics to suggest strength and power. Plunging necklines anchored with heavy metal belts further played with the notions of vulnerability and strength. However it was Decain’s addition of combat boots that truly exemplified this theme, firmly planting his warrior princess on the ground – ready for battle at a moment’s notice.

Balenciaga

Balmain

Jeremy Laing

Narciso Rodriguez

August 15, 2010

Interview with Canadian Supermodel Coco Rocha

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , — Adrian @ 10:19 am

Coco Rocha

I Just came across this past interview I did with Coco Rocha for Fashion File. I remember her at ease and not phased at all by the overwhelming amount of people, cameras and rather demanding schedule. I do remember however, how concerned she seemed to convey a responsible image of herself throughout the entire interview–and what was even more telling?…The behind the scenes look at  how much of her career is orchestrated by the powerful agents at Elite Models. What is undeniable, is her IT factor…take a look at this two part series following Coco from a major cover shoot for Fashion Magazine, to kicking off the opening at Toronto Fashion Week.

Story Produced by: Jesse Barkley

*click on the orange links below to see videos


Part One: A Day in the Life-Coco Rocha

Part Two: Cover Shoot Coco Rocha

June 13, 2010

Interviewing Tyler Brûlé

Filed under: Interviews — Tags: , , , , , — Adrian @ 10:12 am

feb09qa_250-1

Virile, image obsessed, glossy and provocative, 40′sh Tyler Brûlé has made “enigma” his job description. The native Winnipegger and footballer’s son achieved his first publishing coup as creator of the much-lauded Wallpaper* magazine. Not content to stick with a sure thing, Brûlé sold the glossy in 1997 and embarked on writing for the Financial Times, The New York Times and the like. In 2005, he tackled television, hosting BBC’s The Desk. His current endeavour, Monocle, is not as cerebral as it sounds. The international monthly magazine navigates the globe with ease, using current affairs, business, culture and design as its compass points. Now, if we could just steer Brûlé in a more personal direction …

Adrian Mainella

You travel upwards of 240 days a year, which begs the question: Can you be a jetsetter and have romance in your life?

Tyler Brûlé

“You can. I think that is part of the fantasy, though, as well.”

AM

And so many designers try to emulate that lifestyle.

TB

“People still try to emulate Halston.”

AM

I imagine that the idea of romance has changed quite a bit since then, especially in the media.

TB

“Yeah, it’s the watching of media and the conventions of media…Take Tom Ford’s current campaign or the last campaign, where there is a sort of vulgarity…part of our brand is not sort of touchy feely sexy, you know.”

AM

There are some incredibly sexy elements in what you do.

TB

“Sexy elements, but what we want to show is a nice narrative in fashion, with great clothes on a good-looking guy. We want to say, if you want one evening dress or one bag, this is what it is, and put them on people who are—I wouldn’t say fuckable—just attractive-looking people.”

AM

What is sex appeal to you?

TB

“Let’s come back to that. I have to think.”

AM

What do you think your reader finds sexy?

TB

“Come back to that as well. It’s one and the same.”

AM

One and the same? You’re that in touch with your reader?

TB

“I think so. I think I read the room pretty well. [Brûlé points to a marketing sheet outlining the demographics of Monocle readers. An attractive man and woman are pictured in the middle of the page.] Like this document is not how we present ourselves normally, but…”

AM

You’re the man who judges the best cities in the world to live in—which do you believe to be the sexiest city?

TB

“If the sun is out, I think Copenhagen is a sexy city. I love that people are cycling, but not dressed for a purpose — elegant bicycle, elegant outfit as opposed to being on some Cannondale like you’re going to hurtle down a mountain even though you’re just commuting to the office. Sexy cities afford you the maximum amount of experiences across the course of the day, which means you get the minimum amount of friction between your Pierre Hardys and whatever’s under your foot. And I think that’s what makes Copenhagen.”

AM

Would it also have the sexiest people?

TB

“I think Danes are pretty good-looking, you know?”

AM

If you were given $25 to romance somebody, how would you spend it?

TB

“Canadian dollars? It’s all the same now, isn’t it?”

AM

£25.

TB

“£25. I won’t accept that. That’ll be five copies [referring to the cost of a Monocle issue]. I would buy a book and it would be E.H. Gombrich’s A Little History of the World.”

AM

Why that book?

TB

“Because it’s a great adult’s storybook and it’s got this childlike quality even though the topics are very grown-up. It’s a great refresher course on humanity and romance.”

AM

Would you define yourself a little bit like that as well—a grownup with childlike qualities?

TB

“No, just childlike qualities.”

May 28, 2010

Jeremy’s Way: Lunch with Jeremy Laing

Filed under: Fashion,Interviews — Tags: , , , , , — Adrian @ 1:21 pm

Jeremy Laing

Adrian Mainella talks to the Toronto-based designer about ego, survival of the fittest, and why fashion shows are boring.

On a recent trip to New York Fashion Week, I spoke with one Canada’s most revered young designers during the presentation of his latest collection. At 30, Jeremy Laing has become one of Canada’s greatest fashion exports, and a fixture in the NYC fashion scene.


Adrian Mainella

Typically designers are sensitive people.

Jeremy Laing

Yes but they are also typically egotistical people.

AM

Would you consider yourself egotistical?

JL

Sure. It takes a lot of ego to think you have something to put out there to occupy people’s time with…but there is also an equal amount of insecurity that follows.

AM

How do you handle criticism? What happens when you read someone’s critique and they just didn’t get it?

JL

Or what they got was totally inaccurate, which is usually the case… I mean, it doesn’t matter, very rarely does it have an effect that is directly related to our business, at least that we’ve noticed. Either way, if it’s good or bad you have to let it roll off your back, because even if it’s good I don’t believe it. You can’t let the applause or the slaps to your face go to your head. I appreciate when someone who writes about fashion actually makes an effort to understand what goes into making the clothes rather than a superficial assessment.

AM

Has the demise of the U.S. economy created an even playing field with your fellow New York-based designers?

JL

(Laughs) Not really. Even when they are constricted they still have a staff of twenty. I don’t have any, really, so it’s a little hard to call it an even playing field. What I do have to compete with are my ideas and those are as good or better than a lot of people’s.

AM

Does if frustrate you when your end product is compared to those designers who have greater resources than you?

JL

Perhaps a little bit, but at the same time, what can I do about it except do the very best that I can do. Maybe it’s because I just turned thirty and I’m feeling a little more like an adult, I’m a little less concerned with what others are doing and I can’t judge myself against much bigger machines.

AM

Does that make you more competitive?

JL

All I can do is find a way that makes sense for me. I try to idealize my brand like that of designers such as Comme des Garçons and Dries Van Noten; big small companies.

AM

Since you’re a Toronto based designer but you only stage your collection in New York, let’s talk about Toronto as a fashion city.

JL

Well it’s not, and it doesn’t have to be.

AM

Is that your reason to not show at Toronto Fashion Week?

JL

No, the reason is by the time we’re done with New York and Paris I don’t want to think about the season anymore, nor do I have time or money left for another fashion show. Also, I don’t think fashion shows are all that interesting. Typical runway shows can do all sorts of shit to try and make them seem interesting, including making all kinds of crazy clothes that no one is going to wear, but I don’t think it is a particularly contemporary approach. It doesn’t seem like it’s the most right thing right now. Editors are tired of going to twelve shows a day.

AM

Since you only show in New York, why not relocate there?

JL

The cost of doing business here is much easier to swallow, and I couldn’t afford to be there with my current circumstances. Plus, I don’t know if I really want to go there, I don’t want to get sucked into the New York machine particularly.

AM

What is it about that machine you dislike?

JL

It’s never been my ideal, I’d be much more interested in relocating to Paris than New York. The history is different and their values are different, I mean I don’t really feel like part of an American sportswear tradition which is what New York is known for. I mean, I’m not obviously part of any real tradition (chuckles).

May 22, 2010

Adrian Mainella talks trends with Diane Von Furstenberg

Filed under: Fashion,Interviews — Tags: , , , , — Adrian @ 8:58 pm

DVF

For over thirty years, Diane Von Furstenberg has been setting trends that have changed the world. From Commoner to Princess by 22 (through her first marriage to Germany’s Prince Egon of Furstenberg), to Studio 54 revolutionary, this famous American Fashion Designer is one of pop culture’s original influencers. Born in Belgium, Diane moved to America in the seventies and by 1975 made her mark in the fashion world with her iconic wrap dress. Today Diane continues to influence fashion as head designer of one of America’s most successful fashion houses, DVF. If that weren’t enough Diane further influences American Fashion with her prestigious role as President of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

AM: There almost seemed to be a nomad quality to your spring collection…

DVF: There is always a nomad quality to all of my collections. Spring was
called Oasis but the inspiration was taken from Pre-Raphaelite
paintings that looked to antiquity for inspiration. The fabrics are very fluid, very liquid. The colours are very much sunset colours, there are a lot of knits and
a lot of macrame.

AM: You’ve been surrounded by people with great influence on pop culture. How did friends like Andy Warhol have an effect on you?

DVF: Everybody wants to know about Andy Warhol! Andy was really a voyeur
you know. He was somebody who was taking pictures and taping you, but Andy Warhol understood our time better than anyone. He understood branding before anyone really knew what branding was.

AM: Did you know that this group you were involved with was going to set
trends that would change pop culture forever?

DVF: You don’t think like that, you just do your thing. It’s like you
can’t tell history while you’re living it. It’s only when you look back, and even then you don’t say: “Oh look at what I have done”. Youjust live it.

AM: At the time, did you have any idea what kind of impact your wrap dress
would have on the fashion world?

DVF: I don’t know, you don’t know. You don’t sit and analyze it. I
mean did I know that this wrap dress would last for so long? No you
don’t know those things, and those are not things that you decide,
it’s the public that decides it.

AM: Let’s talk about the very idea of trends, Why does the fashion world need
them in order to successfully make change?

DVF: That’s the mystery of fashion—those things you can’t determine. Why
all of a sudden everybody thinks yellow, why all of a sudden all young
kids wear combat boots? It’s not always the designers that make the trends. Designers interpret the trends. The trends come from the streets, the mood comes from the streets, and that’s why fashion is a reflection of our time–it’s a very mysterious thing. Even if you made nothing new and there were no more designers designing, there would still be fashion, and there would still be trends.

AM: Are there any trends in fashion today that you are gravitating towards?

DVF: Freedom, the trend of freedom through prints and colour.
Colour is very good for me—I’m riding that wave right now. I
have always designed with colour–I am the most colourful of them all.
Imagine a garden in black and white! What I do is always right on trend.

AM: Freedom? What other trends unfolding in fashion right now are a good
example of that?

DVF: Well the shoes that we are doing right now aren’t liberating women except breaking our legs!

AM: Do you feel trends have the power to liberate women? The wrap dress could arguably be described as a liberating moment for women at the time.

DVF: And it still does.

AM: How would your closest describe you as a friend?

DVF: That I am generous, and that I take time for them.

AM: What do you think they would say your biggest downfall is?

DVF: I don’t know, (laughter) I have no downfall.

November 24, 2009

Grey Trousers: The Saving Grace In Every Man’s Wardrobe

Filed under: Uncategorized — Adrian @ 7:48 am

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The grey trouser is as base to European men as blue jeans are to us. They are a staple in every man’s wardrobe across the pond helping to anchor his entire wardrobe. Grey is the most neutral of colours, and is easily matched to almost every other colour in a man’s closet. More importantly, a simple wool grey trouser can easily be dressed up for cocktail attire, or dressed down for casual weekend wear.

Tis the season for endless cocktail parties. A full suit outside of the office seems a bit out of place for a cocktail event–lacking a sense of imagination or personal style, which can be better achieved through separates. Nothing looks sharper on a man than pairing a grey trouser with a pair of dark brown or oxblood brogues, a matching belt, and a crisp white button down shirt. Frame this ensemble with a well tailored double vented blazer for that truly polished look. When not wearing a tie there is no need to match your pocket square to your shirt, so have fun with your pocket square and add a vibrant colour or print which best reflects your mood. If you really want to add a little Savile Row to this look, match your socks to your pocket square.

For a dressed down approach, pair your grey trousers with a light blue button down shirt and a colourful jumper (wool sweater). Whether it is yellow, orange, purple, navy, or forest green, colour is a great way to personalize any look. Consider light or dark brown chelsea boots and venture away from those reliable black shoes. Men in Europe tend to avoid black shoes and wear brown shoes in their place. A rust, brown, camel or navy blue driving coat will really complete this look and elevate your fashion status to new heights. For real European flare, try the same driving coat in a diamond quilt fabric and everyone will think you just stepped off the plane from Milan.

zegna_couture_shoes_5

October 25, 2009

Under Pressure: Interviewing Anna Wintour

Filed under: Fashion,Gossip — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Adrian @ 1:08 pm
Anna Wintour with Candy Pratts Price at Narciso Rodriguez F/W 2008

Anna Wintour with Candy Pratts Price at Narciso Rodriguez for F/W 2008

It was at Narciso Rodriguez’s F/W 2008 show where I was first tested by Vogue’s Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour. Anna wasn’t about to give me a much needed interview without making me earn it. Click below to watch my recent vlog on how one of my most stressful moments at Fashion File unfolded.

CLICK HERE TO WATCH MY MOST RECENT VLOG

Also, join me on twitter at adrianmainella for up to the minute tweets on all things fashion and style.

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